Sperg Burg Arcade

[Riot]

DDR is all set up! Hopefully I can use this thread to ask questions and make sure everything stays up and running.

We cleaned out the pads, which had accumulated a lot of dust and gunk. The coin counter showed over 425,000 coins over this machine's lifetime, so it's seen a lot of play. The arrows are starting to concave a tiny bit, and one thing I did notice is the top right of the P2 pad underside does not have the little leg stabilizer and is just on the wheel. That might be what was making it feel a little unstable, so does anybody know a good place to get a replacement? I found this (http://www.happmart.com/Pro_Details.asp ... x=2&sid=62) but don't know how reputable this place is, but haven't checked around much anywhere else. I don't want to play too much on that pad until it's fixed in case it could hurt it.

I hunted around for screws since I wanted to get them by the weekend when people were here, but metric screws are apparently relatively rare at hardware stores, but I managed to pick up about 20-25 each of an assortment of 3 types of M6 screws (pan head phillips, pan head flat screw, flathead phillips). I might pick up some more from that McMaster-Carr website eventually. Getting it inside wasn't too tough (didn't have to remove a door but it was very close... had to remove coin door). We couldn't find the screws to attach the pad cords to the front of the machine... anybody know what size I should buy to get that fixed up?

The machine didn't seem to have many scores (at least Oni courses anyway) and wasn't unlocked which I thought was weird. Eventually I am excited to get a Stepmania box in there and start playing some of the awesome custom songs I have accumulated! Thank you for christening my arcade with a new name Chad and Merk, I hope nothing breaks and I have to call in reinforcements!

[MonMotha]

DDR is all set up! Hopefully I can use this thread to ask questions and make sure everything stays up and running.
We couldn't find the screws to attach the pad cords to the front of the machine... anybody know what size I should buy to get that fixed up.

I believe they are also M6. They're normally something like a low-profile flattened cheese or button/pan head, but it's not easy to find that in the US in metric sizes. The closest thing I can find is McMaster-Carr 95836A688. Assuming it is indeed M6 (check the threads using another M6 screw), those should at least fit even if they don't have the same cosmetic appearance as the OEM hardware.

[Riot]

DDR is all set up! Hopefully I can use this thread to ask questions and make sure everything stays up and running.
We couldn't find the screws to attach the pad cords to the front of the machine... anybody know what size I should buy to get that fixed up.

I believe they are also M6. They're normally something like a low-profile flattened cheese or button/pan head, but it's not easy to find that in the US in metric sizes. The closest thing I can find is McMaster-Carr 95836A688. Assuming it is indeed M6 (check the threads using another M6 screw), those should at least fit even if they don't have the same cosmetic appearance as the OEM hardware.

I tried putting in some of the extra old stage screws I had laying around, but they didn't seem to fit right in the front holes. They seemed a bit too small. Any idea about replacing the front pad leg or if it'll cause damage/distortion if it's not there?

Also, I felt like some of the corner brackets on the arrows might have been too tight. The triangular point edge on the outside (farthest point on the arrow for instance) on a few seemed like they were coming up slightly, as if the screws were too tight. I haven't checked em' all, just thought I noticed that on the one or two I was screwing in at the time. Dunno if loosening screws will help or if the flat top screws are just not as good for that purpose. Then again, a lot of the stuff that catches my attention is probably me worrying too much (hence Chad's name for my house).

[Merk]

If you want to dip into making it a Stepmania cabinet just let me know and I can part out a machine for you and take a weekend to help set it up! The hardest part is setting up the computer but we could probably just bust out some ghosting software and copy Chad's little hard drive for his cabinet.

[MonMotha]

I tried putting in some of the extra old stage screws I had laying around, but they didn't seem to fit right in the front holes. They seemed a bit too small.

The screw has to make it all the way through the wood before it will really start to engage the threads of the insert, so the stage screws may not be long enough. They may, however, be bigger than M6. Try an M8 or M10. It will be metric, so don't even think about using a UTS screw on it. You'll just destroy the threads.

Any idea about replacing the front pad leg or if it'll cause damage/distortion if it's not there?

It will cause the stage to sit slightly angled. If it's on the "inside" you can kinda get by with just letting the other stage half take the weight via the "tie", but this isn't really a good solution. If it's at the outside corner, you won't be able to level things at all without the stage tipping when you step in that corner. If you've got it on gushy carpet, you may be able to get by without fully raising the stage of the casters as it won't want to roll anyway. If you can find a replacement leveling assembly, yes go for it.

Also, I felt like some of the corner brackets on the arrows might have been too tight. The triangular point edge on the outside (farthest point on the arrow for instance) on a few seemed like they were coming up slightly, as if the screws were too tight. I haven't checked em' all, just thought I noticed that on the one or two I was screwing in at the time. Dunno if loosening screws will help or if the flat top screws are just not as good for that purpose.

If you have OEM corner brackets, they don't bend...at all. You can torque 'em down as hard as you want to and in fact should have them rather tight so that they don't come loose from vibration during normal play There should be a reasonable amount of room (>1/16") between the top of the panel and the bottom of the corner bracket. If they are in contact, somebody has probably "foam modded" your machine and used foam that was too thick. The type of screw you use shouldn't matter, but bigger heads are generally better as they'll distribute the pressure more evenly over the bracket.

[Ho]

Also, I felt like some of the corner brackets on the arrows might have been too tight. The triangular point edge on the outside (farthest point on the arrow for instance) on a few seemed like they were coming up slightly, as if the screws were too tight. I haven't checked em' all, just thought I noticed that on the one or two I was screwing in at the time. Dunno if loosening screws will help or if the flat top screws are just not as good for that purpose.

If you have OEM corner brackets, they don't bend...at all. You can torque 'em down as hard as you want to and in fact should have them rather tight so that they don't come loose from vibration during normal play There should be a reasonable amount of room (>1/16") between the top of the panel and the bottom of the corner bracket. If they are in contact, somebody has probably "foam modded" your machine and used foam that was too thick. The type of screw you use shouldn't matter, but bigger heads are generally better as they'll distribute the pressure more evenly over the bracket.

If I understand you correctly, at least some of the screws on the corner brackets are replacements. (You mention that they have flat heads rather than the round heads of the original screws.) One thing that occurs to me that might cause the warping of the bracket you're describing is if those replacement screws are of the countersink variety. That is, the underside of the head is tapered into the shaft rather than just being flat underneath. These are designed to make the screw head sit flat with the surface, but only if the hole you're fastening was drilled for it (and DDR corner brackets are not). If that's the case, the brackets are likely damaged and loosening the screws will only...make them loose.

[DAVE101]

There are a couple useful pad maintenance threads on AIJ that are definitely good reads if you're looking for ways to optimize your setup.

Pad Modding (decreasing arrow recession, increasing sensitivity) - http://aaronin.jp/boards/viewtopic.php?t=9363

Countersinking your screws (very flat setup) - http://aaronin.jp/boards/viewtopic.php?t=9692

Panel Mod (even flatter setup) - http://aaronin.jp/boards/viewtopic.php?t=10034

[Riot]

Yeah I do want to look into increasing sensitivity a little bit and decreasing the amount of recession I have to put on the arrows to trigger... especially the up arrows, as on a lot of songs I am leaning back towards the bar and tapping my foot upward often hits on the bottom of the up arrow and doesn't quite come down with enough force.

Should I be worried that the monitor kinda had a tiny fizzy screen for a split second during a song, kind of like if something would come into contact with some static electricity? Hadn't noticed it happening at all before, and will keep a lookout to see if it happens again.

Also, is there no way to get Extreme to remember individual song scores? I could have sworn that it used to be, but maybe not... guess it's been awhile. What was that website that tracks your scores for DDR? Might wanna get into that so I can keep track and push myself.

[Merk]

http://zenius-i-vanisher.com/v5.2/ddrsc ... enterscore



If you have a memory card it will record and display your highest score per song. Note that with the way DDR scores / grades work your highest "score" may not necessarily be your highest letter grade. I fondly remember having a AA on Max300 on my memory card get wiped by an A with a slightly higher money score. Other than that high score dick wagging has to be done through Oni courses!

[MonMotha]

FWIW, I've found the various stage "mods" I've seen floating around to be poorly thought out and often downright damaging in the long term. The best play configuration I've found is the original but in good shape. New panels (not worn down) and sensors do wonders, but it's not a cheap thing.

If you want sensors, just bite the bullet and call Betson. They'll give you a decent price if you buy a bunch (comparable to what you'd get from the Chinese outfits once you factor in the absurd shipping and payment processing prices), and they're really quite good. Fluffy and I got a bunch of sensors from Uniarcade, and they were total garabage. The panels work OK, but they had to be trimmed to fit, and the artwork printing on them isn't nearly as good as the OEM job. They're made out of a different, slightly stiffer material, too. I suspect they probably break easier, but they've held up OK for now.

As for the memory card readers, be aware that while they use a USB cable to connect to the System 573 board, they are not USB. Do not plug them into a PC; you'll potentially ruin them if you do (and they won't work with the PC, regardless).

[Riot]

No memory card unfortunately the little foam parts under each arrow seem pretty worn so maybe I can start with that. Is there special foam or foam size that I should be looking for? Hopefully I can even scrape the old ones off. Does that business card stuff hurt the sensors?

[DAVE101]

Should I be worried that the monitor kinda had a tiny fizzy screen for a split second during a song, kind of like if something would come into contact with some static electricity?

Don't leave your cell phone right next to the cab, that's my experience with that.

As far as the "foam mod," here's a shorter tutorial that answers your questions - http://r21freak.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=18595

[MonMotha]

If it's the OEM foam, it's probably reasonable even if worn. The stuff is surprisingly resilient. Most of the replacements people use will wear out quickly. If it's not OEM, well, yeah, nuke and pave.

I've been meaning to sit down and identify a good replacement for the foam tape they used, but I haven't bothered since my machine doesn't seem to need it (and I should point out it didn't play very well when I got it - new panels and sensors did wonders).

I wouldn't recommend double-stacking the foam on the top of the L-brackets. Konami did a decent job with the entire mechanical stack-up. YMMV if you've already got aftermarket parts.

The "business card" mod shouldn't hurt things if you're reasonable about it. Many PIU machines actually come with a similar modification already in place. The key is to be reasonable. If you go too thick, things will "stick", and it could break down the sensors prematurely. If they're already relatively worn out, that's less of a concern of course.

[Merk]

I thought about it a little bit today and I realized that Riot has probably one of the few Extreme cabinets out there today.

Indy has none
Fort Wayne has none (unless Wayne Rec, which was ironically the first Extreme in Fort Wayne, still has one)
MAYBE there's one in Evansville
There's possibly one at Lazerlite in B-Town
And I'm pretty sure South Bend / Purdue don't have one.



Actually, Dave101, does the Foster quad cafeteria still have that Extreme cabinet with the broken coin mech?

[MonMotha]

It's not like it's hard to make a machine run Extreme these days. It's just so played out that what's the point?