Welp, I bought a cabinet

[Merk]

My social anxiety aside, what options for DDR sensors do I have? eBay doesn't give me anything and it sounds like I have to throw my money at some foreign distributor and hope they give me what I paid for.

[Fluffyumpkins]

You could check sows. I've seen people selling sensors.

[Merk]

I bit the bullet and bought 32 (+5 for Riot) sensors off a salesmans from Betson. Here's hoping that they don't send me a bunch of broke ass sensors!

[Ho]

How was the bullet?

[Merk]

After sales tax we agreed to $433.51 for 37 sensors or $11.72 a sensor

[Ho]

I guess that's reasonable. But I was asking how the bullet tasted.

[JzN]

I got my sensors for $8.25 AUD from arcadespareparts.

When i replaced my old sensors, the new ones are working perfectly fine.

I still got ripped off $200 AUD from Uniarcade but im playing with a thin sheet of perspex that hasn't broken through... yet!

I had the same problem about my 2P pad not working, and funnily enough, when i moved the machine to the cleaner part of my garage, it worked. It was a loose connection between the pads loom and the cabinet where if i touch it it might work and again if i wirggle it, it works again. I bought a spare jama loom to switch out the old one but ever since moving the machine, it's worked so i didn't bother with the lengthy process of replacing it.

Is your cab up and running yet?

Only thing i wanted to know, is there a proper way of shutting down the machine? I just power it off from the switch.

fyi - my battery and screen seems like they are in good condition, all saved scores and all.

[Merk]

I got my sensors for $8.25 AUD from arcadespareparts.

When i replaced my old sensors, the new ones are working perfectly fine.

I still got ripped off $200 AUD from Uniarcade but im playing with a thin sheet of perspex that hasn't broken through... yet!

I had the same problem about my 2P pad not working, and funnily enough, when i moved the machine to the cleaner part of my garage, it worked. It was a loose connection between the pads loom and the cabinet where if i touch it it might work and again if i wirggle it, it works again. I bought a spare jama loom to switch out the old one but ever since moving the machine, it's worked so i didn't bother with the lengthy process of replacing it.

Is your cab up and running yet?

Only thing i wanted to know, is there a proper way of shutting down the machine? I just power it off from the switch.

fyi - my battery and screen seems like they are in good condition, all saved scores and all.

Dang that's a real good price for the sensors! My cabinet is sort of up and running. I haven't spent too much time on it because I need to do a fair amount of maintenance on first such as swapping out all the sensors, clearing out all the dust, cleaning off the panels, etc. The monitor is working (thank goodness!) and the game physically turns on which was honestly my biggest concern since replacing a monitor is not easy. The 2P side not working is a bit of a concern but it's hopefully just a loose connection! I'll know for sure once I start removing the metal panels and cleaning things up.

Shutting down the machine from the power switch inside the little volume control / coin mech area is fine. You can more or less think of it like a computer - you can leave the power supply plugged into the wall and just turn the machine on / off from the power switch in the front.

[Merk]

Is this normal? I feel like there should be some PCB or something that these little guys plug into. This is the top-left panel of my 2P side in case it's not obvious:



Here's what the connector between the two pads currently looks like:



Is there anything obvious that would be causing the 2P side to not work at all?

[MonMotha]

You're missing the whole stage IO board!? Well, you got screwed on that sale...

There's a way to hack it up to make it work without them. The individual switch test mode won't work, and you'll have to run a suitably hacked bootleg to avoid a boot-up error, and the lights won't work, but otherwise there are no ill effects. It's also possible to hack something up to make the lights work.

If you prefer, real stage IO PCBs can be had for like $350, sometimes more, sometimes less. I happen to have a dead one I may be able to revive, too.

[Merk]

God. Fucking. Damn it.

Where can I buy a DDR stage PCB? Am I at the mercy of eBay?

[Merk]

I went ahead and bought this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281276497450?ss ... 1439.l2649

Oh God please tell me I bought the right thing

[MonMotha]

Yes, that is the part you're missing. There should be another one in the left side of your stage. Both sides need one.

[Merk]

My 1P side does work, do I need a second PCB if my 1P side works?

[Merk]

Nevermind, that was a dumb question, I wrote that post because Chad said to me, "Hey don't you need like another PCB in addition to the one you just bought" while I was half distracted by playing some Diablo 3 hence why I made the above post.


Out of curiosity, is there anything that could cause lag on a DDR cabinet? When I go into the I/O test and press an arrow there is a noticeably lagged response. I haven't done any real playtesting to see if this lag impacts the game in any way but I figured I'd ask since it's something I noticed.